1936 Mercedes 540K Maharaja Sport Roadster

Who remembers tube cement? 

Although the chrome was brilliant it appeared toylike and due to bad casting quality will be marred in the process of cleaning up the parts. I removed the chrome using bleach. On the photo you may observe that the castings were not lining up and needed some work. 

Before and after clean-up. 

There is no protrusion linking the prop shaft F-6 to the engine’s gearbox G-117/G-18. I found F-2 that may be used linking the prop shaft to the gearbox. 

The orientation of the steering arms, part F-24 and F-25 is not clear in the instructions. The correct - orientation should be as shown on this photograph. 

The chassis, part C after being assembled was painted in its entirety with Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black X-18 and picking out the rubber parts (shock absorbers and other rubbers) with Tamiya Rubber Black XF-85. 

The engine has been assembled and painted with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium. 

Showing off the assembled, painted engine and installed with minimal upgrades limited to scratched build plug wires and scratch building a coil.
The paints used:
Engine block – Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black X-18
Tappet cover and details –
Air filter – Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black X-18 and panel liner to bring out the details with Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color (Brown)
Fan – Tamiya Black X-1
Plug wire covers – Tamiya White X-2
Upgrade materials for plugs and coil wires – Tamiya Cable 0.5mm outside diameter. 

More views of the completed chassis, engine and drivetrain. 

Although, the picture herewith does not depict the Maharaja version, I have decided to paint the car in a similar two-tone scheme of black and ivory/light yellow and this is the design that I am aiming for. 

At this juncture the decision has to be made to build Maharaja version or the sport roadster version as it involves radical surgery. The Maharaja version require opening recesses on the mudguards to Maharaja version accommodate the spare tyres. Following the recessed outline on this lower body part where the spare tyres will be located, using a pin vice and drill, the area was drilled out at intervals. Using a scalpel and a half round needle file the recessed area was enlarged to its exact size. Using the D-12 and D-13 (spare wheel wells) to trace the actual size in which wheel shells M-2, M-3 x 2 can fit. There are no location pins. The spare wheel wells were blended in using Vallejo Plastic putty on the top. The underside shows plastic card used to fill gaps left by the spare wheel wells. 

Mr. Surfacer 500 was used to stipple the floor pan to simulate carpets. The first layer of primer Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. 

The carpet surfaces were then taped off and painted with RAL8012 Rotbraun A-MIG-0014 followed by Tamiya Flat Clear XF-86 to simulate the carpets. After taping off the interior, the rest of the part was painted Tamiya Black X-1 top and bottom. The black surfaces were wet sanded using 1200 grid sandpaper. Everything was locked in using Tamiya Clear X-22. The threads on the running boards were recommended to be painted black. To show contrast the threads were picked out using Tamiya Rubber Black XF-85. After everything dried, I mated the chassis to the body. Mating the lower body part A to the chassis part C are accomplished by cleaning the mating surfaces and use the standard Tamiya slow setting glue. 

The exhaust supports, D-2 and D-3 were left in the original plastic body colour, yellow and sealed in with Tamiya Clear X-22. 

The chrome in general looks toylike and therefore have to be removed. The chrome of the downpipes, I-18 and I-19 from the manifold to the exhaust were de-chromed using bleach. The exhaust parts had ugly mould lines and needed serious efforts to align the ribs. The spare wheel covers will hopefully cover the misalignment mostly. I first primed the parts using Mr. Surfacer 1500 and then based using Tamiya Black X-1 and then painted with Super Metallic 2 - Super Chrome Silver 2 SM206, sealed in with A-STAND Acrylic Varnish Aqua Gloss Clear A.MIG-2503. 

The rest of the exhaust consists of two parts, F-17 and G-16. F-17 being closest to the manifold was primed with Tamiya Black X-1 and painted A-STAND Jet Exhaust A.MIG-2312. G-16 was primed using Tamiya Black X-1, painted Tamiya Gun Metal X-10 and misted with A-STAND Jet Exhaust A.MIG-2312 starting dark at the front and lighter towards the back. 

The seats, inside door covers and dashboard were painted with Red Brown Shadow A.MIG-0912 and accented with RAL8012 Rotbraun A-MIG-0014. The seats were painted with Tamiya Clear X-22 to capture a polished leather look. 

The gear lever, J-27 were de-chromed and the knob was painted with Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black X-18 and the rest was painted with Humbrol Polished Aluminium 27002. The handbrake, J-28 was accidently snapped in two and de-chromed. The handgrip was painted in Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black X-18, the metal part painted with Humbrol Polished Aluminium 27002 and where attached to the body painted in Tamiya Rubber Black XF-85. Everything was locked in using Tamiya Clear X-22. 

The brake and clutch peddles, part G-13, the battery, part G-9 and the accelerator peddle, part G-6 were first primed using Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned down with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. When dried the stems of the peddles were painted in Ammo METAL Acrylic Color Steel A MIG-0191. The foot surfaces with Tamiya Rubber Black XF-85 to simulate the rubber pads on the pedals. The battery was painted in Tamiya Semi-Black X-18 with the raised details were picked out using Ammo METAL Acrylic Color Steel A MIG-0191. 

Attaching the small bits and bobs. Starting from the firewall, working my way back towards the rear. I am of the opinion that the battery cover, G-9 is not shown to be on the correct side of the floor panel (righthand side) but should rather be glued on the lefthand side covering the cavity in the floor. No locating marks/pins are available. This battery will in any case not be seen.  

The instrument panel was now tackled. The panel itself, H-2 was painted with Red Brown Shadow A.MIG-0912 and accented with RAL8012 Rotbraun A-MIG-0014. Everything was locked in with Tamiya Clear X-22. Trimmings were accented using a silver pen. Again, everything was locked in with Tamiya Clear X-22. The instrument cluster was primed Mr. Surfacer 1500. The entire cluster was then covered with Tamiya Black X-1 and locked in with Tamiya Clear X-22. Trimmings were accented using a silver pen. Note that the side with the log switches, highlighted with Tamiya White X-2, should be facing towards the bottom. The decals were applied and locked in with Micro Kristal Klear. 

All the parts were primed in Mr. Surfacer 1500. The inside of the firewall, H-1 was taped off to retain the look of the carpet. All the parts were painted in Tamiya Black X-1. Parts G-4 and G-10 were then painted in Ammo METAL Acrylic Color Steel A MIG-0191. Finally everything was covered with Tamiya Clear X-22. 

The body panels have a lot of flash and mould lines that needs careful addressing. Because the Maharaja Sport has been chosen, part E-1 is to be mated to part B. Therefore, part D-8 must be cemented to the backseat. 

In mating part E-1 to part B, the fit is less than desirable. Using styrene sheet, additional supports were glued to part B in order to allow more surface area to glue E-1 to B. 

To ensure a secure bond a dechromed windshield, part I-25 was glued the upper body, part B. Because there are no positive attachment points holes were also drilled to accommodate the spotlights, parts J-11 and J-12. 

After the glue on the bond between part B and E-1 dried a primer layer of Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned down 50/50 with Mr. Color Leveling thinner was airbrushed on top of the panels. To get the surface smooth, I wet-sanded the entire upper body. 

After some tedious masking, using the reference photo as a guide the upper body was painted with Tamiya Black X-1 and the windshield frame painted with Super Metallic 2 - Super Chrome Silver 2 SM206. After some super fancy touch-up, everything will be sealed in with A-STAND Acrylic Varnish Aqua Gloss Clear A.MIG-2503. 

 

The firewall assembly are now installed and the air intakes painted in Humbrol Chrome Silver Metallic 191.
The top of the body has been mated to the bottom part of the body. 

The steering column, part J1 was dechromed, base painted in Tamiya Black X-1 and painted with Ammo METAL Acrylic Color Steel A MIG-0191. The steering wheel’s rim, D1 was left unpainted. I picked out the spokes with a chrome pen. The center had to be chewed out to allow for the center ring to seat deeper in line with reference photographs. The center ring was painted with Tamiya Black X-1 followed by Super Metallic 2 - Super Chrome Silver 2 SM206. Center to the center ring (ideling control) was picked out with Humbrol Enamel-Copper Metallic MET 12. 

Install the instrument panel by using the steering wheel assembly to align properly. According to reference photographs, the instrument panel is seated too deep when following the instructions. However repositioning the instrument panel, a little shallower, prevent the doors from being seated. I significantly narrowed the instrument panel to be seated more accurately. It is clear that the steering wheel is out of scale. 

The windshield, part L1 was too narrow. I ended up using the part as a template, cutting two separate panes from transparent plastic and glue them into place. 

The front part of the radiator, part J18 and the radiator ornament, part J22 were de-chromed, assembled, primed in Tamiya Black X-1 and spayed with Super Metallic 2 - Super Chrome Silver 2 SM206. Everything was sealed in using A-STAND Acrylic Varnish Aqua Gloss Clear A.MIG-2503. The parts making up the back, parts F13 and F14 were assembled and painted with Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black X-18. The sink marks on F14 were ignored because it will not be visible. When dried, the two sub-assemblies were glued together. 

With the radiator assembly and its braces installed, the model starts to resemble a Mercedes. 

The bonnet assembly is a multi-part affair. The long hinge joining the bonnet, Parts D10 and D11 was heat sealed in place. The louvers, parts F18, F19, F20 and F21 although being moulded in black plastic was painted Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black X-18. The chrome parts, I7 x 4 (bonnet latches) and J2 and J3 (chrome trimmings) were de-chromed. These parts will later be primed in Tamiya Black X-1 and spayed with Super Metallic 2 - Super Chrome Silver 2 SM206. 

First glue the louvres into place and then secure the shorter of the hinges into place with parts F11 x 2. 

The top part of the louvers was highlighted using a silver pen. The top of the bonnet was painted Tamiya Black X1. 

The bonnet assembled. 

The bonnet assembly is loosely installed. 

The doors differentiate between the lefthand, part D6 and the righthand, part D7. The top parts of both the doors were taped off and painted Tamiya Black X-1. Parts are side specific. All the small handles were painted with Tamiya Black X-1 and when dry with Super Metallic 2 - Super Chrome Silver SM206. The inside door panel was painted with Red Brown Shadow A.MIG-0912 and accented with RAL8012 Rotbraun A-MIG-0014. I ended up replacing the door windows, L2 and L3 with transparent plastic. 

Doors installed. 

Replacing the kit issue windshield and door windows proved to be a good choice. 

The number plates, I12 and I13 were dechromed using bleach, properly washed and painted black with Tamiya Black X-1. A common pencil erasure was covered with Tamiya Flat White XF-2 and used as a “print pad” which highlighted the lettering. The entire number plate was painted with Tamiya Clear X-22. When properly dried, the internal part was masked off with tape and the frame was painted with Tamiya White X-2. 

The parts making up the front bumper, part I16 and I12 as well as the back bumper, J29 and I13. After dechroming all the sinkholes were filled using Mr. Surfacer 500 and sanded flush. The bumpers itself, the numberplate back plate, part F10 as well as the back lights were painted with Tamiya Black X-1. When dry the parts were painted with Humbrol Enamel Gloss Chrome Silver 191. The lenses on the backlights were Tamiya Red X-3 followed by Tamiya Clear Red X-27. 

After dechroming all the trimmings were painted with Tamiya Black X-1. When dry the parts were painted with Humbrol Enamel Gloss Chrome Silver 191. The trimmings on the doors, parts I-26 and I-27 were cut up in three parts in order to look more realistic and not cover the door gaps. The front indicator lights, part J7 x 2 lenses were painted with Tamiya White X-2. 

For the Maharaja version the Boot, part D8 + seat, part H4. After dechroming all the trimmings were painted with Tamiya Black X-1. When dry the parts were painted with Humbrol Enamel Gloss Chrome Silver 191. 

After dechroming all the trimmings were painted with Tamiya Black X-1. When dry the parts were painted with Humbrol Enamel Gloss Chrome Silver 191. The front indicator lights, part J7 x 2 lenses were painted with Tamiya White X-2. 

The parts that make up each wheel assembly. For the Maharaja version four assemblies is completed. After dechroming parts K1, K2 and J26, the rims, parts K-1 and K2 were painted Tamiya Black X-1. When dry the parts were painted with Humbrol Enamel Gloss Chrome Silver 191. The rubber tyres were extremely hard. After dunking the tyres in boiling water, I was able to safely insert the rim halves. After dechroming I17 x 4 the wheel hubs were painted with Tamiya Black X-1. 

Attaching the wheels to the axels. Apply glue as instructed. 

The light clusters are very delicate and just like most of the trimmings were damaged. By dechroming the parts, it was easily repaired. 

The clusters are multipart affairs. After dechroming and repairing the parts were painted Tamiya Black X-1. When dry the parts were painted with Humbrol Enamel Gloss Chrome Silver 191. 

The light clusters have been installed. For the lights both sides of the windscreen there were no locating points and I had to drill holes into the windscreen frame. 

The spare wheel clams, parts M2 x 2 and M3 were glued together. A lot of careful clean-up was required. Especially the outer rim of the clam. 

The clams primed using Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. 

The wheel clams were primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500, and painted Tamiya Black X-1. The parts making up the rims were dechromed and painted as described earlier after which it was glued into place. The two brackets, parts M1 x 2 were also dechromed and painted Tamiya X-1 and details were picked out with Humbrol Enamel Gloss Chrome Silver 191. Everything was sealed in with Tamiya Clear X-22. 

A chrome pinstripe was painted on the center edge of both clams where it was assumed a chrome trimmed clamped will be used to secure the two halves. 

The two clams in position on the mud guards. 

 

The two brackets on the clams in place. 

 

 

The Maharaja option require fuel tanks to be installed on the running boards. Joining the fuel tanks halves needed a lot of sanding to remove the seamline after which the sanding marks were covered with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. 

It was then primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 and painted with Tamiya Black X-1. The fuel caps were painted with Super Metallic 2 - Super Chrome Silver SM206 and the leather straps were painted with Tamiya NATO Brown XF-68. Everything was sealed in using Tamiya Clear X-22. 

 

The external tanks loosely fitted on the running boards. 

The nubs at the back of the wheel caps are off-centre and therefore had to be removed and replaced with plastic stock. 

 

The wheel caps black based with Humbrol Black Enamel 021 and left to dry for 24 hours. 

The wheel caps have been painted with Humbrol Enamel Gloss Chrome Silver 191. Whitin the next 24 hours everything will be sealed with Tamiya Clear X-22. After thoroughly cured the centres will be hand painted. 

Mixing the colour for the wheel cap’s centres is a tricky business. It was made up from Revell Aqua Color Luminous Yellow/Leuchtgelb 312 - RAL1026 and Revell Aqua Color Beige 314 - RAL1001. In the centre is a piece of sprue to check the mixture. 

Lefthand view. 

Hand painted each wheel cap. After the acrylic paint dried, a very fine-grained sandpaper was used to expose the silver paint below. A layer of Tamiya Clear X-22 was spayed to cover the wheel caps. 

Close-up of the wheel caps installed. 

Righthand view. 

Showing off the engine. 

Showing off the engine.